Whether
to drink now or cellar to enjoy its imminent, spectacular maturity,
has suddenly become a no-brainer. Thanks to the superb vintages
spanning 1995 through 2000, Italy's noblest red wine is enjoying
unprecedented prestige.
Barolo is an
Italian wine, one of many to claim the title "Wine of kings,
and king of wines". It is produced in Cuneo's province, south-west
of Alba, within the southern end of Piemonte. Barolo borrows its
name from the small hamlet (population 760) that lies near the center
of the wine's growing zone. The zone itself is a more self-contained
microcosm than most Barolo fans may realize. While wine in Italy
is timeless, Barolo came about in the 1800s when the Marchesa Giulietta
Colbert Falletti started making wine out of Nebbiolo grapes. There
are only about 3,000 acres of nebbiolo under cultivation here --
not quite as much vineyard land as in Margaux, a single Bordeaux
commune.
Barolo is produced
in the communes of Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba
and parts of the communes of Cherasco, Diano d'Alba, Grinzane Cavour,
La Morra, Monforte d'Alba, Novello, Roddi, Verduno, all in the province
of Cuneo. Only vineyards in the hills with suitable slopes and orientations
are considered adapted to production, and the terrains must be primarily
clayey-calcareous in character. The wine is produced solely from
the Nebbiolo grape variety. The Lampia, Michet and Rosè types
are authorized. It matures at the end of September for the most
part. Nebbiolo thrives during prolonged summer seasons. The clusters
are dark blue and greyish with the abundant wax that dresses the
grapes.
Barolo wines
are typically a deep red and can take on an unusual orange tinge
with age. Their flavor is thick and complex. Barolo typically smells
of tar, violets, and roses. But also fruit, licorice, and/or oaky.
The initial nose of a barolo is often that of the pine tree. When
subjected to aging of at least five years, the wine can be labeled
a Riserva. Barolo should be drunk at 60F and can age for 5-10 years.
For connoisseurs
it is Italy’s most collected wine; for beginners it can be
a difficult one to understand.
In the past
all Barolos used to be very tannic and they took more than 10 years
to soften up. Fermenting wine sat on the grape skins for at least
three weeks, extracting huge amounts of tannins; then it was aged
in large, wooden casks for years.
In order to
meet the international taste, which preferred fruitier, more accessible
styles, the "modernists" cut fermentation times to a maximum
of ten days and put the wine in new French barriques (small oak
barrels). The results, said traditionalists, were wines that weren't
even recognizable as Barolo and tasted more of new oak than of wine.
The controversies
between traditionalists and modernists have been called the Barolo
wars.
The war has
now subsided. Though outspoken modernists are still committed to
new oak, many producers are now choosing the middle ground (like
Elio Altare or Roberto Voerzio with long macerations combined with
barrique), often using a combination of barriques and large casks.
The more prestigious houses, however, still reject barriques and
insist on patience only for their exceptional wines. These are auction
staples, sought after by aficionados in Italy, Germany, Japan, Switzerland
and the United States.
Barolo is all
about the soil. The terroir. The road that runs south from Alba
through Monforte d'Alba and on to Dogliani roughly divides the two
dominant soils: to the west lies the Tortonian, a blue-tinted marl
mixed with sand and marked by the presence of elements such as magnesium.
To the east, the sandier Helvetian loam is lighter in color and
texture and is relatively rich in limestone, iron and phosphorous.
The wines springing from the western-sited, Tortonian-nourished
vineyards have generally been described as soft, fruity and aromatic,
while those from the eastern, Helvetian sites are perceived as bigger,
more structured and longer maturing. These broad distinctions are
often blurred and sometimes completely obliterated, however, by
the combination of clonal variation and winemaking techniques. More
detailed analysis has also revealed that these two soils are layered
throughout the region. In summary, of the towns in the area, the
"left" hills have compact soil and produce long lasting
wines. The "right" hills have softer soil, making a wine
that should be drunk more quickly. Both vineyards are regulated
- Barolo vineyards can only grow around 3200k of grape/acre.
RIGHT
HILLS: Roddi, Verduno, La Morra, Novello, Cherasco
Barolo alcoholic
content is set at 13%. There are two grades of Barolo: Standard
Barolo, aged two years in the barrel, one in the bottle. Riserva
Barolo, aged three years in the barrel, one in the bottle. Of note
is that Barolo, due to the small supply, large demand, and labor
intensive and delicate crop (much like Pinot Noir) can also be a
bit pricey compared to other wines of Italy.
Benchmark Vintages:
The majority of producers count 1982, 1989, 1990, 1996 and 1997
as the five greatest vintages of the past 20 years. A significant
number also favor 1998 and 1999. A run of middling years preceded
a disastrous 1994 vintage, wherein heavy rains ruined the harvest.
Only a few makers produced a wine that was even drinkable, and most
of those are already fading fast. In most instances, the less said
of this vintage the better. Wine Spectator denotes 2000 as one of
the best years ever noting rich and opulent reds, with round tannins
and exciting fruit; perfection in Nebbiolo. 2001 was also a very
noteworthy year with structured and firm reds with very nice racy
character. 2002 was a washout. If you have some of this around drink
it now. It should not age well. 2003 is just being tasted and although
there are many unbalanced wines, due to an extremely hot growing
season, there are some nice surprises to be found.
Looking
for a few to try? Check out:
Bricco
Rosso 1998 - $33: Approachable and traditionally styled.
Brezza
1998 - $37: Very fresh, and ready for drinking this minute.
Ceretto,
Zonchera 1998 - $45: Elegant, as is the Ceretto hallmark,
classic and concentrated. Great quality for the price.
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