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Washington/Oregon Wine Made Simple

Washington

Oregon

The state of Oregon in the United States has established an international reputation for its production of wine. Oregon has several different growing regions within the state's borders which are well-suited to the cultivation of grapes; additional regions straddle the border between Oregon and the states of Washington and Idaho. Wine making dates back to pioneer times in the 1840s, with commercial production beginning in the 1960s.

American Viticultural Areas entirely within the state include the Willamette Valley, Southern Oregon, Umpqua Valley, and Rogue Valley AVAs. Parts of the Columbia Gorge, Walla Walla Valley, and Snake River Valley AVAs lie within Oregon. Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris are the top two grapes grown, with over 16,000 tons harvested in 2005. As of 2005, Oregon wine makers produced over 1.5 million cases combined.

With 303 wineries in Oregon, a tourism industry has developed around wine tasting. Much of the tourism focuses on the wineries and tasting rooms in and around the Yamhill Valley southwest of Portland. In 2004, it was estimated that the wine tourism contibuted USD $92 million to the state economy, even excluding winery and tasting room sales.

History of Oregon Wine Production

Wine has been produced in Oregon since the Oregon Territory was settled in the 1840s; however, winemaking has only been a significant industry in the state since the 1960s. Grapes were first planted in the Oregon Territory in 1847, with the first recorded winery being established in 1850 in Jacksonville. Throughout the 19th century, there was experimentation with various varietals by immigrants to the state, and in 1904, an Oregon winemaker won a prize at the St. Louis World's Fair. Wine production would cease in the United States during prohibition, and the Oregon wine industry lay dormant for thirty years after prohibition was repealed.

David Lett of Eyrie VineyardsThe Oregon wine industry started to rebuild in the 1960s, when California winemakers opened several vineyards in the state. This included the planting of Pinot Noir grapes in the Willamette Valley, a region long thought too cold to be suitable for viticulture. In the 1970s, more out-of-state winemakers migrated to the state and started to organize as an industry. The state's land use laws had prevented rural hillsides from being turned into housing tracts, preserving a significant amount of land suitable for vineyards. In 1979, Eyrie Vineyards entered a 1975 Pinot Noir in the Wine Olympics; the wine was rated among the top Pinots in the world, thus gaining the region its first international recognition.

The accolades continued into the 1980s, and the Oregon wine industry continued to add both wineries and vineyards. The state industry continued to market itself, establishing the first of several AVAs (American Viticulture Areas) in the state. The state also grew strong ties with the Burgundy region of France, as Oregon's governor paid an official visit to Burgundy and a leading French winemaking family bought land in Dundee.

In the early 1990s, the wine industry was threatened by a Phylloxera infestation in the state, but winemakers quickly turned to the use of resistant rootstocks to prevent any serious damage. The state legislature enacted several new laws designed to promote winemaking and wine distribution. The state found a newfound focus on "green" winemaking, leading the global wine industry into more environmentally friendly practices. Several new AVAs were established. By 2005, there were 314 wineries and 519 vineyards in operation in Oregon.

Varieties of Wine

Like other wines produced in the United States, Oregon wines are marketed as varietals. Oregon law requires that wines produced in the state must be identified by the grape variety from which it was made, and must contain at least 90% of that variety. Oregon law has long forbidden use of place names, except as appellations of origin. Oregon is most famous for its Pinot Noir, which is produced throughout the state. Pinot Noirs from the Willamette Valley have received much critical acclaim from wine connoisseurs and critics, and Oregon is regarded as one of the premier Pinot-producing regions in the world.

In 2005, the top five varieties produced in Oregon were:

  • Pinot Noir 7,974 acres (32 km²), 12,086 US tons
  • Pinot Gris 1,184 acres (5 km²), 4,317 US tons
  • Chardonnay 842 acres (3.4 km²), 1,568 US tons
  • Merlot 550 acres (2.2 km²), 675 US tons
  • Riesling 524 acres (2.1 km²), 1,000 US tons
  • Other varieties with significant production in Oregon include Cabernet
  • Sauvignon, Gewürztraminer, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot blanc, Sauvignon blanc,
  • Sémillon, and Syrah. V. vinifera based wines produced in smaller quantities include Arneis, Baco noir, Cabernet franc, Chenin blanc, Dolcetto, Gamay Noir,
  • Grenache, Marechal Foch, Malbec, Muscat, Nebbiolo, Petite Syrah,
  • Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Viognier, and Zinfandel. The state also produces sparkling wine, late harvest wine, ice wine, and dessert wine.

Statistics

As of the 2005 wine growing season, the state of Oregon has 303 bonded wineries, 384 wine brands, and 734 vineyards growing Vitis vinifera, composing a total of 14,100 acres (57 km²) of which 11,800 acres (48 km²) were harvested in 2005. Out of all US wine growing regions, Oregon ranked third in number of wineries and fourth in production. Nearly 1.6 million cases of Oregon wine were sold in 2005. The retail value of these cases was $184.7 million, a 24% increase over the previous vintage.

The industry has had a significant economic impact on the state. The industry contributed a total of USD $1.4 billion to the Oregon economy. Of that figure, over USD $800 million is directly provided by wineries and vineyards via sales, wages, and spending. It is estimated that the industry contributed 8,479 wine-related jobs and USD $203 million in wages. Exports to other states in 2004 were USD $64.1 million.

Oregon produces wine on a much smaller scale than the California wine industry. Oregon's biggest producer ships only 125,000 cases per year and most produce under 35,000 cases. The state features many small wineries which produce less than 5,000 cases per year. In contrast, E & J Gallo Winery, the United States' largest winery, produced 65 million cases of wine in 2002. The majority of wineries in the state operate their own vineyards, although some purchase grapes on the market. Oregon contains a significant number of independent vineyards.

The Oregon wine industry focuses on the higher-priced segments of the wine market. Oregon growers receive a higher average return per ton and a higher average revenue per case than do growers in other wine-producing regions in the United States. Despite producing a much smaller volume of wine, Oregon winery revenues per capita are comparable to those of New York and Washington.

Major Wine Producing Regions of OR

Williamette Valley

The Willamette Valley AVA is the wine growing region which encompasses the Willamette Valley. It stretches from the Columbia River in the north to just south of Eugene in the south, where the Willamette Valley ends; and from the Oregon Coast Range in the West to the Cascade Mountains in the East. At 5,200 square miles (13,500 km²), it is the largest AVA in the state, and contains most of the state's wineries; approximately 200 as of 2006.Wine Glasses

The climate of Willamette Valley is mild year-round, with cool, wet winters and warm, dry summers; extreme temperatures are uncommon. Most rainfall occurs outside the growing season and the valley gets relatively little snow. Not all parts of the Valley are suitable for viticulture, and most wineries and vineyards are found west of the Willamette River, with the largest concentration in Yamhill County.

This region is most famous for its Pinot Noir, and also produces large amounts of Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Chardonnay. The region also produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewürztraminer, Müller-Thurgau, Sémillon, and Zinfandel grapes, but in far smaller quantities.

The region is divided into four subordinate AVAs: Dundee Hills, McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge, and the Yamhill-Carlton District. Two more AVA applications are pending. In addition, many wine connoisseurs further divide the Willamette Valley into northern and southern regions approximately at the latitude of Salem.

Southern Oregon

The Southern Oregon AVA is an AVA which was formed as the union of two existing AVAs—the Rogue Valley AVA and the Umpqua Valley AVA. (A small strip of connecting territory is included in the Southern Oregon AVA to make it a contiguous region; however, this strip passes through mountains regions not suitable for vineyards.) This AVA was established in 2004 to allow the two principal regions in Southern Oregon to jointly market themselves. As the Rogue Valley and Umpqua Valley regions produce different grapes and different varietals, they are examined separately.

The Umpqua Valley AVA contains the drainage basin of the Umpqua River, excluding mountainous regions. The Umpqua Valley has a warmer climate than the Willamette Valley, but is cooler than the Rogue Valley to the south. Grapes grown here include Pinot Noir, with smaller amounts of Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Riesling, as well as several French-American hybrids. The region includes one sub-AVA, the Red Hill Douglas County AVA.

The Rogue River AVA includes the drainage basin of the Rogue River and several tributaries, including the Illinois River, the Applegate River, and Bear Creek. Most wineries in the region are found along one of these three tributaries, rather than along the Rogue River itself. The region is 70 miles (110 km) wide by 60 miles (100 km) long (although much of the land within the AVA is not suitable for grape cultivation); there are less than 20 wineries with only 1,100 acres (4 km²) planted. The three valleys differ greatly in terroir, with the easternmost Bear Creek valley being warmest and driest, and the westernmost Illinois River valley being coolest and wettest.[ Each river valley has a unique climate and grows different varieties of grapes. Overall, however, this region is the warmest and driest of Oregon's wine-growing regions. The region has one sub-AVA, the Applegate Valley AVA.

Columbia Gorge

The Columbia River (shown here in Hood River County, Oregon) is at the heart of the Columbia Gorge AVA Valley of the North Fork of the Walla Walla River above Milton-Freewater in OregonMain article: Columbia Gorge AVA The Columbia Gorge AVA is found in the Columbia Gorge. This region straddles the Columbia River, and thus lies in both Oregon and Washington; it is made up of Hood River and Wasco counties in Oregon, and Skamania and Klickitat counties in Washington.The region lies to the east of the summits of nearby Mount Hood and Mount Adams, situated in their rain shadows; thus, the region is significantly drier than the Willamette Valley. It also exhibits significant differences in elevation due to gorge geography, and strong winds common in the area also play a factor in the region's climate. This allows a wide variety of grapes to be grown in the Columbia Gorge. The region has nearly 40 vineyards, growing a wide variety of grapes, including Syrah, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Zinfandel, Cabernet, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Sangiovese.

Walla Walla Valley

Portions of northeastern Oregon (in the vicinity of Milton-Freewater) are part of the Walla Walla Valley AVA, which was established in 1984. This appellation, which is part of the Columbia Valley AVA, lies primarily within Washington state. This region has nearly 100 wineries and 1,200 acres (5 km²) planted. Wines grown in the valley include Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as Sangiovese and a few exotic varietals including Counoise, Carmenère, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Franc, Nebbiolo and Barbera.

Snake River Valley

A new viticultural area along the Snake River was established on April 9, 2007. Principally located in Idaho, the area also encompasses two large counties in Eastern Oregon, Baker County and Malheur County. The region's climate is unique among AVAs in Oregon; the average temperature is relatively cool and rainfall is low, creating a shorter growing season. Current production is led by hardy grapes such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Chardonnay. The climate also lends itself extremely well to the production of ice wine. However, the AVA is quite large and warmer microclimates within the area can also support different types of grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Wine Tourism

With the continuing improvement in the region's winemaking reputation, wine tourism in Oregon has become a significant industry in its own right. On-site sales are becoming an increasingly important part of the business of Oregon winemaking, and other businesses which cater to wine tourists, such as lodging, fine restaurants, art gallerys, have been appearing in places like Dundee, many of which have long been rural farming communities. Wine festivals and tastings are commonplace. It is estimated that wine tourism contributed USD $92 million to the state economy in 2004, excluding sales at wineries and tasting rooms. There are approximately 1.48 million visits to Oregon wineries each year, 49% by Oregonians and 51% from out of state visitors. Major events which draw significant numbers of tourists to wine country include the International Pinot Noir Celebration and the Oregon Pinot Camp.

Pinot noir grapes at Chehalem Ridgecrest Vineyard, Newberg, OregonFacilities for wine tourists in Oregon are considered underdeveloped compared to wine regions in California, especially premium growing regions like the Napa Valley. Only 5% of overnight leisure trips in the state involve visits to wineries, a much smaller figure than comparable Californian growing regions which range from 10%–25%. Oregon lacks many accommodations found in wine growing regions in other states such as luxury hotels, resorts, and other attractions suitable for well-heeled tourists. As of August 2006, a resort hotel is being planned in Dundee, which would be located near notable wineries such as Domaine Drouhin Oregon. A local developer and businessman has proposed construction of a 50-room hotel, spa and restaurant in the Dundee Hills region, but has met with opposition from many notable vintners, including David Lett, who fear that such a development would dramatically alter the landscape of the region. Concern has also been raised by vintners that the proposed site is on prime growing land that should be used for wine production rather than a resort hotel.

The increase in winery-related tourism, as well as the presence of a casino in the Willamette Valley, has greatly impacted the region's transportation infrastructure. Oregon Route 99W, the highway which runs through the heart of Willamette Valley wine country (and which is the main street in towns such as Newberg and Dundee), is plagued with frequent traffic jams. Plans to construct a freeway bypass around Newberg and Dundee (avoiding the prime growing areas in the hills) are in motion, but are highly controversial. Currently, construction of the highway project is unfunded, and the Oregon Department of Transportation has proposed making the new bypass a toll road, highly unusual for Oregon. Tolls have also been proposed on the existing route of OR-99W, in addition to the new bypass. This proposal has proven to be highly controversial, with many local residents opposing the plan, primarily due to potential negative effects on businesses located on 99W and a general aversion to tolling existing roads.Washington

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Washington

Wine produced in the U.S. state of Washington has a long and continued history. The state ranks 2nd in the US in the production of varietal wine with over 31,000 acres (125 km² or 48.5 square miles), as of 2006, of vineyards, a harvest of 120,000 tons of grapes (2006), and exports going to over 40 countries around the world from the 500 wineries located in the state. Washington produces premium and superpremium wines - in 2006 Wine Advocate bestowed two perfect scores on cabernet sauvignon vintages from Washington's Quilceda Creek winery (Red Mountain AVA). Only 15 other wines have ever been scored so highly by Wine Advocate, all from California.

Geography and Climate

The glaciers resting upon what is now Washington State retreated 16,000 years ago, leaving behind a free-draining gravel bed up to 250 ft in some places. The topsoil is sandy and stone studded which is ideal for low vigor vine growing. Persistent lava flows created basalt-based soil foundation.

The rain shadow of the Cascade Range leaves the Columbia River Basin with around 8 inches of annual rain fall. Vignerons take advantage of long sunlight hours (on average, two more hours a day than in California) and a consistent growing season. The fruit attains optimal ripening while the cool nights help the vine to shut down and lets the grape maintain natural levels of acidity.

Washington shares the same latitude as the prime wine producing areas of Europe, which is felt by many to contribute to the quality of the grapes. A drawback of the region is that extreme winter freezes occur with some regularity, killing off substantial portions of the vineyards, which then have to be brought back to full production over a period of years.

Grape Varieties

While over 80 grape varieties are grown in Washington State, the primary grapes used in the production of wine are from the Vitis vinifera family of grapes.

The main grapes used in wine production include Barbera, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Grenache, Malbec, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Petite Syrah, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Syrah, Tempranillo, Viognier, and Zinfandel.

Washington State is also home to planting of some lesser known Vitis vinifera varieties that are also used in wine production for some experimental varietals and blending. These include Abouriou, Alicante Bouschet, Aligoté, Auxerrois, Black Cornichon, Black Monukka, Black Muscat, Black Prince, Blauer Portugieser, Calzin, Carignane, Chasselas, Chauche Gris, Clevner Mariafeld, Colombard, Csaba, Ehrenfelser, Feher Szagos, Gamay, Green Hungarian, Lemberger, Madeleine Angevine, Madeleine Sylvaner, Melon de Bourgogne, Mission, Morio Muscat, Muller-Thurgau, Muscat of Alexandria, Muscat Canelli, Muscat Ottonel, Palomino, Petite Verdot, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Meunier, Pirovano, Rkatsiteli, Rose of Peru, Salvador, Sauvignon Vert, Scheurebbe, Siegerrebe, Sylvaner, Trollinger, and Trousseau.

Some notable French hybrid grapes used in wine production include Aurore and Baco Noir.

AVAs

Washington has nine federally defined American Viticultural Area (AVA) mostly located in Eastern Washington. They are:

  • Columbia Valley AVA which encompasses the following smaller AVAs:
    • Yakima Valley AVA (which encompasses the Rattlesnake Hills and the
    • Red Mountain AVAs)
    • Red Mountain AVA
    • Walla Walla Valley AVA
    • Horse Heaven Hills AVA
    • Wahluke Slope AVA
    • Rattlesnake Hills AVA (Washington State's newest appellation).
    • Columbia Gorge AVA
    • Puget Sound AVA (Washington's only AVA located west of the Cascades)
    • The southern boundaries of the Columbia Gorge, Columbia Valley and the
    • Walla Walla Valley AVAs extend into Oregon.

The Lake Chelan and the Ancient Lakes wine-growing regions are currently seeking federal AVA status.

Columbia Valley

The Columbia Valley AVA, known for its structured Cabernets and jammy Merlots, comprises 90% of Washington State’s wine industry. This massive appellation, with over 16,000 acres (65 km²) under vine and well over 300 wineries, was the driving force behind the development of the state’s wine industry.

It is geographically defined by three mountain ranges that border it on every side but the east, and by the Snake, Yakima and Columbia Rivers which converge within it. Located in the lee of the Cascade Mountains, the area is sheltered from the marine climate to the west and is left with semi-desert conditions.

While portions of this appellation cross into Oregon, the majority of wine activity occurs on the Washington State side. The Columbia Valley appellation was created as a stepping stone for the definition of other viticultural areas in the state. Subsequently, smaller and more distinct appellations have been created within it.

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