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Malbec
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One of the traditional
"Bordeaux varietals",
Malbec has characteristics that
fall somewhere between Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot. A midseason
ripener, it can
bring very deep color, ample
tannin, and a particular plum-like
flavor component to add complexity
to claret blends.
Outside Bordeaux it is known
as Côt and, in Cahors,
also as Auxerrois. There are
in fact hundreds
of local synonyms, since Malbec
at one time was widely planted
in nearly every area of France.
Sensitivity to frost and proclivity
to shatter or coulure are the
primary reasons Malbec has become
a decreasing factor in most
of France. Although plantings
in the Medoc have decreased
by over two-thirds since the
mid-twentieth century, Malbec
is now the dominant red varietal
in the Cahors area. The Appellation
Controlée regulations
for Cahors require a minimum
content of 70%.
Malbec truly comes into its
own in Argentina, where it is
the major red varietal planted.
Much of the Malbec vines there
were transplanted from Europe
prior to the outbreak of phylloxera
and most is therefore ungrafted,
planted on their own roots.
Sadly, over the years, phylloxera
has infested Argentina, too,
and vineyards are now being
replanted on resistant rootstock.
Argentines often spell it "Malbeck"
and make wines from it that
similar in flavor to those made
in Europe, but with softer,
lusher structure, more like
New World Merlot. Another difference:
where French examples are usually
considered short-lived, Argentine
Malbecs seem to age fairly well.
Malbec is also planted in Chile,
and there's relatively little
and recent acreage in California
and Australia. It is usually
blended with other red varietals
in these countries.
Successful Argentine Malbec
growers claim that, in order
to develop full maturity and
distinction, Malbec needs "hang
time" even after sugar
levels indicate ripeness. Otherwise,
immature Malbec can be very
"green" tasting, without
its characteristic notes of
plum and anise.
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